Landsknecht, Reisläufer and hot pants

When scouting on the internet you kind of bump into the same woodcuts of the Trossfrau and Landsknecht, and even though they are very detailed and interesting to study, you always come to the part when you are interesting to find more, to be able to compare other details and reveal new secrets behind the dress. I have several project on going, and one is to sew a pair of “hot pants” for a friend and since I have been focusing on the Trossfrau dress, I am trying to learn more of the specific construction of the male garb. (For example did I recently discovered that the back seam seams to always be angeled into the middle back, and not straight up to the waistline as I thought before …this would probably ease even more the stress of the fabric when sitting down, since the cutting should give it even more streching. Very well, let’s try that on the next pair of hosen then)

Urs Graf Fahnrich und Dirne in Ruckansicht 1516
Since it’s an Urs Graf woodcut so it is probably a Reislaufer, but the pictures I was thinking about is somewhere in my book which I havn’t yet scanned and put on the computer… As for know I can’t say that the Landsknecht hosen had the same construction, but at least it is an interesting thing to try to see if it would give the bearer more room for his behind. (Urs Graf Fahnrich und Dirne in Ruckansicht 1516)

The problem I encounter is the fine line between the Reisläufer (Swiss) and the early Landsknecht (German) dress: I want it to be tight fitted so I am howering around early 16th century, but I want it to be on the “right” side of the border, so I can’t use any slashed hosen as an inspiration for the hosen.

Urs Graf Warrior with lance and maiden 1516
The person who the hosen are made for wanted to have one short leg (with possibility to add a piece of extra leg for colder days) and one longer to above the knees. This picture shows an example of short leg/long leg …but the slashing tells me that it is woodcut of a Reisläufer.

Next step is to dig into the woodcuts of “Caii Julii Cesaris des großmechtigen ersten Roemischen Keysers”, a little nice digitalized book with a lot of woodcuts: http://books.google.com/books?id=NxJCAAAAcAAJ&printsec=frontcover&source=gbs_ge_summary_r&cad=0#v=onepage&q&f=false

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