During the 16th century in Germany you can see several different shaped Gollers, usually just covering the shoulders and bust area.
When browsing through picture from the large area of Germany and through the different classes, you notice some similarities of the basic shape and decoration, but also interesting details that is different; some has a longer front tip, some is just barely covering the bustline, some is made out of fur, some has different decorations etc, but the basic function is still the same; to keep your shoulder warm during chilly weather. My personal experience of using a goller in a Swedish climate is that it is a perfect accessory; small enough to not take up any room in the luggage, and still gives enough cover to keep you warm by just covering up the area of your shoulder and bustline, and will increase your body temperature enough to feel comfortable.
If you’re planning on making a goller, you should consider the purpose of the gollar; what climate are you using it for, what time of the year, and what would be the most appropriate fabric and design for your persona?
The pictures posted above shows some of the variety of the Gollers available during the 16th c (similar designs can also be found in other parts of Northern Europe), you can find more information about the pictures above on my Pinterest (Whilja de Gothia).
1) For my Trossfrau outfit I still have my very first basic goller made out of wool and lined with linen, it’s made in four panels, because that gave me the most control of the shape and makes the goller very well fitted. It has a simple decoration of two rows of wool stripes.
This goller has two sets of strings to tie it in the front, a solution that is extremely practical, but now I might admit that it’s probably not a perfectly period solution; today, I would probably have chosen hooks and eyes instead (…the strings is still very practical, darn it)
The wool goller lined with linen works perfectly for example chilly summer nights, an autumn day and works even great to keep you dry during the rainy spring season.
2) For heavier rainy days or for warmer winter days, I’ve made a longer goller, it reach down to my waistline, also in wool lined with linen. This one is made out of one piece with two smaller seams on each shoulder to make it more comfortable to wear. I added a small collar to give me neck protection as well. Note that the collar is just a straight piece attached to the gollar neckline.
The front is closed by strings, this time by adding two sets of holes on each side and then lace them together, this idea of closing was inspired by how hosen are attached to a wams in the male garb.
3) For cold nights I use my fur lined goller (most commonly known by its English word “partlet”), it’s very cosy and warm, and combined with my long dark blue goller, it keeps me warm during snowy days.
4) …and I’m currently working on a new Swiss goller, with a thousand slashes, so it might take a while;