The red and black Landsknecht outfit

Read more about how I made the sleeves here

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The person who commissioned me for this had one only one request “make it fancier then your husbands”, so I could basically pick and choose any style I wanted to sew.

The outfit is based on two different woodcut, and I have been eyeballing an awesome wams with incredible amount of slashed sleeves and back (left picture) for a while and decides that it would be perfect for the hot Californian weather due to the large amount of slashes, and that the slashing pattern on the wams would provide the wearer with a lot of movement (I also expect him to get stuck, slashes love getting stuck in all kind of stuff), making it comfortable to wear.

The hosen on this woodcut was though a bit plain (…and my husbands hosen is pretty fancy), so I looked around for any other plausible near-to-year woodcuts, and during a discussion with the person for whom this outfit is made for, he said that he really admired the black/white checkered pants I made a couple of months ago for another guy and we decided to use that for one of the legs (and it also matched his device). The other leg took a while for me to find, it had to be fancy, but I was also interested to try the concept of long striped leg construction, and when I found the other woodcut, it also had diagonal slashes which, by my calculation, would provide him with some breeze and extra movement. On the same woodcut as the one with the striped leg, one of the other Landsknecht was wearing a wams with a striped slashed front flap. Perfect, now the wams and the hosen would be smoothly incorporated with each other!

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3 comments on “The red and black Landsknecht outfit

  1. Aina says:

    I am so impressed by your skillfulness, the Landsknecht outfit looks absolutely fantastic !! It is very hard for me to imagine how you are able to vision the finished work when you start this kind of project.

    • Thank you Aina! The approach I use for the process from a woodcut to a finish outfit is basically just looking into all the tiny details, but as all processes, it sometimes ends up differently then you wanted.

      But for every mistake you do, you learn something new and it’s a useful experience for the next outfit you made. This is only the seventh male landsknecht I’ve made, but even I can see the incredible progress I’ve made just by simply making them over and over again; every outfit opens up for new questions for me to ask, questions I didn’t even knew I needed to know before I started 🙂

      My favorite advice people have given me is;

      1) don’t mix and match too many different styles into one dress, but if you need to, choose from woodcuts from the same +/- 10-20 years. (For example, this outfit required me to find a plausible front section since it wasn’t visible on the one I wanted to make)

      2) when choosing a woodcut to use, study as much different woodcuts as possible even if they are from other decades or even other countries (like Swiss vs German mercenaries) to find a plausible construction solution.

      3) in some part of the process you might need to choose between period or practical, and this is the hardest part to do and requires you to focus on the purpose of the outfit; for example, this outfit is for a friend playing in California where it’s incredible hot during a long period of the year. I therefore tried to make the outfit as cool as possible so I didn’t line the sleeve pieces with linen, something I would have probably done if we where living in Sweden. It’s also not completely handsewn, even though I tried to fell all the seams and stitch as many slashes as possible by hand

      4) don’t except to make a perfect first outfit; it might work out exactly as you wanted …for me it’s usually that I instead find some more detail I need to adjust. For example; this kind of Wams with the removable front flap has an intriguing problem. Every woodcut I study, the front flap seem to only be attached by 3 points, one on each shoulder, and one in the bottom center. So how do I solve the problem that when the person moves certain ways, the bottom sides is sliding out and reveling the undershirt? This time I made the bottom sides wider and changed the hight of the top attach points. I look forward to see if that works (he hasn’t tried it on yet), if not, back to the drawing table and continuing the search to find someone who might have done this type of wams and maybe have a good theory of how to solve it.

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